You understand that feeling if you realise a brand new buy unleashes potential in an previous, beloved garment? Like getting a yellow oxford and realising it doesn’t simply look good with denims, but in addition along with your favorite herringbone jacket?

OK, I’m going to imagine at the least a few of you do. Effectively, I used to be enjoying round with outfits to indicate the PS black Tapered T-shirt with final month; they had been going to be restocked and I realised we’d by no means photographed the black. 

After I put on black I instinctively put it with equally darkish colors – darkish brown, darkish olive – or very muted ones – pale denim, chilly beige. I wouldn’t naturally assume it will work with tobacco. 

However then I remembered a picture I’d saved from an previous shoot, the place the feminine mannequin is carrying white denims, a black T-shirt and a tobacco-suede jacket. So I attempted the PS tee with my much-loved Connolly shirt-jacket and presto! What a beautiful mixture. 

Thrilling too, as a result of as I mentioned it opens up prospects. You begin to assume: would a black sweatshirt look good as nicely? Would a black knit be too darkish? And the way about black denims? Would they each work with my Himel Bros? (The solutions had been sure, no, sure and sure respectively.) 

It’s such a pleasant feeling – such as you’ve acquired not only one piece of clothes, but in addition 20% of a bunch of others. 

A reader talked about just lately that they like behind-the-scenes articles, resembling how merchandise are developed, or how I believe via outfits.

That is a method. Given the duty of discovering pleasing methods to put on a brand new piece of clothes, I begin with the plain and straightforward, progress to the extra uncommon, and shoot off on numerous tangents when one mixture suggests one other.

The garments are laid out on the mattress, normally. Ones that appear promising are tried on (you possibly can’t try this with all the pieces, it simply takes too lengthy), and in the event that they move that check they’re recorded with a selfie. 

These are stored on file, in a folder on my telephone. Which is backed up by Google on some super-server someplace. Sooner or later I would really get round to categorising all of those so that they’re browsable. 

I don’t undergo this course of each morning, thoughts. That might rely as obsession. Solely when there’s one thing new to {photograph} for an article or a product launch. 

Most different days it’s only a case of making an attempt out one concept, knocking it round till I resolve it really works. Or it doesn’t, and I revert to one thing normal.

The simplest combos are these like at this time’s black, white and tobacco, as a result of they’re an extension to one thing I already put on – simply changing the usual mid-grey layer I’d normally put on below a jacket with this washed-out black. 

It’s like one other twig on an present department, on the tree of my private model. Or one thing. 

OK, returning to the extra concrete a part of this piece: that is the black PS Tapered T-shirt, which was restocked over the weekend together with white and navy.

The overwhelming majority of the T-shirts went to the ready checklist, however there are nonetheless some out there. Additionally, fairly a couple of readers purchased two sizes to be able to verify their sizing, so in the event you’re measurement is not out there it is price including your self to the ready checklist, as we’ll get a couple of again.

On the black tee, it is undoubtedly a washed black – like a pair of previous black denims, not a black knit – which I discover makes it simpler to put on. The distinction with white/ecru denims will not be as stark. It’s softer towards the face.

The navy can be a washed navy, as must be clear from the pictures. Not a classic-menswear darkish navy. The white is off-white. 

And for those who have not had one of many Tapered T-shirts earlier than, what’s particular about them? 

Effectively, the concept is that they mix the standard and weight of circular-knitted Japanese T-shirts, with a match that’s tapered and subsequently way more normal. It’s the model of a tee you’re used to, from a Sunspel or a Uniqlo, however made to the extent means as a heritage T-shirt – with all its character, energy and drape. 

As I described at size once we launched the T-shirts final yr, I’ve all the time beloved Japanese circular-knitted T-shirts – by comparability mainstream tees can really feel flimsy, nearly like underwear. 

The issue is that they’re normally reduce in a conventional (‘genuine’) form, which is brief and sq.. If you happen to’re remotely slim, they’re not very flattering. Proportions do fluctuate, however manufacturers can’t do something about the truth that the physique is one piece, like a tube. 

So we make the T-shirts in the identical means as these heritage items, however afterwards reduce a seam within the sides, to offer them a extra common form. 

Importantly – at the least to me – the collar can be excessive within the again, which I discover extra flattering than a conventional T-shirt. It’s the one cause I like carrying most sweatshirts and not using a shirt beneath: a sweatshirt will usually be low on the again, however the tee fills in that house. 

Most of the manufacturers we like on PS recognise this and reduce their knits increased in the back of the neck – Adret, Colhay’s, Rubato – however these are jumpers. With sweatshirts it’s a lot rarer. 

Oh, and as promised we’re nonetheless engaged on a gray model of the T-shirt. However as with lots of manufacturing in the mean time, there have been delays and delays. It will likely be months earlier than that’s out there I am afraid.

Different data on the Tapered T-shirt:

  • Made for us in Osaka by the model Allevol. Allevol tees are good, however have a unique physique match and collar form
  • They use high-grade uncooked American cotton, which is spun in Japan into 14-count yarn (most high-street T-shirts are round half that, in addition to in fact utilizing decrease high quality fibre). 
  • The fabric is knitted slowly on classic round machines, known as Taimaru. These are just like loopwheel machines, however are inclined to create a denser materials and a richer really feel. 
  • The T-shirts have a sure collar: a separate piece of fabric which makes use of three traces of sewing to connect it to the physique. This stops the collar stretching out over time – evaluate it to a mainstream T-shirt, and it’s outstanding how flimsy the latter feels. To keep away from the collar being too stiff or cumbersome, the final line of sewing is on the physique, attaching solely to the collar on the within. 


  • Deal with like a costume shirt: wash cool and grasp to dry. Don’t tumble dry
  • The fabric can really feel a bit of stiff after washing, relying on the machine and detergent. Nevertheless it ought to soften as quickly as it’s worn
  • Being dense and malleable, the fabric has some pure stretch. So after washing don’t be afraid to offer it a bit of stretch in some way, to softly add size or width. 
  • This is similar factor denim does after its washed, coming in a bit of after which going out because it’s worn once more, adapting to the physique. Doing this reshaping after washing is simply accelerating that course of.


  • The T-shirts match like several common tee within the physique (from Sunspel for instance) which all have a slight taper
  • The one distinction you’ll discover is that the chest is a bit of bigger, and the shoulder seam barely dropped. Each of which I discover fairly flattering
  • Within the photographs above, I’m carrying a Massive
  • Nevertheless, I might additionally put on a Medium – I just like the Massive for a barely outsized look, and the good factor concerning the taper is that it doesn’t look too massive. Within the photographs under I’m carrying a Medium. Taka is carrying a Small
X-small Small Medium Massive X-large XX-large
Chest (pit to pit) 49cm 52 55 58 60 63
Hem (backside width) 44 47 50 53 55 58
Size (from again neck) 60 62 64 66 68 70

As talked about within the article, please do add your self to the ready checklist in case your measurement will not be out there, as we can have exchanges. And apologies there weren’t extra – we ordered the utmost out there. In Japan as in most locations in the mean time, high-end manufacturing is having capability points

Pictured sharing a joke with the stunning, all the time smiling Lorenzo Cifonelli. Under with Taka of Allevol and Clutch Cafe

For the opposite garments featured, please see the launch article right here, or ask within the feedback for particulars